It didn’t even dawn on me that when driving from Dubrovnik to Trogir, our next stop, we’d have to pass through a tiny little piece of Bosnia that reaches the coast until our trip began. The Balkans have experienced countless wars over the centuries one of which was the Austro-Ottoman War. The war ended in 1699 with the Treaty of Karlowitz creating the majority of the borders in the area that exist still today. The border crossing in and out of Bosnia turned out to be trivial, they looked at our passports quickly and didn’t need to see paperwork for our rental car. The only restaurants or hotels that exist on the 20km of stretch of land is the small town of Neum. The little resort town is cheaper than surrounding Croatia and we ate a delicious café (Restoran Bonaca) overlooking the ocean. Excellent and cheap seafood – definitely the ideal lunch spot if driving between Dubrovnik and Split/Trogir.
Trogir itself is very close to Split, one of Croatia’s largest cities. Split gets more tourists than Trogir and is supposedly a very nice city but Trogir was absolutely perfect for us. Trogir itself is a tiny little medieval town (and a UNESCO World Heritage site) on an island wedged between the mainland and a larger island in the Adriatic. Our AirBNB was in a great spot just across the bridge from the Old Town and was an easy walk (AirBNB is a great option for Trogir, there are very few hotels.) Trogir is great to walk around at night and so small you can become familiar with it in just an hour or so. The first night we ate dinner at a pretty forgettable place but the second night we ate at what would end up being my second favorite restaurant of the trip. Kristian Pizza is truly amazing. The food and service were so great we ended up going back a second night. The restaurant is family owned, the father walks around greeting everybody and the son was our server. I would eat the seafood gnocchi and the homemade pasta everyday – please excuse the gratuitous food photos here.
A few other things worth doing in Trogir I should mention. There isn’t really a beach in Trogir itself but another beach in nearby Okrug Gornji is a 30 minute walk or short taxi drive away. The 1km beach is lined with cafes and pretty mellow – a great place to relax for the day. You should also climb the clock tower in the St. Lawrence Cathedral in the central square. There’s a minimal fee to get in but after a set of steep stairs you’ll be rewarded with great views of the city. The stairs might make those with acrophobia a bit nervous but I’m pretty sure they’re solid. Lastly, you can rent a small boat from several vendors on the boardwalk for about 80 euros a day. Pack some food and beer and go explore the remote beaches only accessible by boat.
Trogir isn’t exactly ‘off the beat’ but it’s much less well-known then many spots in Croatia. BUT! It really is a great place to relax for a few days and if you’re planning a trip to Croatia it’s definitely a spot to visit.